How To Calibrate Your Cr-10
When you think of low-cost 3D printers, there are many choices. But the only problem is that some of them are not worth your money and time. Some may be too small or their printing quality isn’t good enough.
CR-10 came into the market by a little-known company, and it has seen as much success as some of its entry-level competitors.
Working with the CR-10 machine demands some level of skill and knowledge. This is because some screws can be lost while shipping, so you should ensure that they’ve all arrived before you begin. CR-10 requires a little adjustment if you can spin the wheel without moving the axis. CR-10 has quite an appealing figure.
It has stark simplicity and comes with clean black-coated aluminum rails everywhere. Not only that, the glass print bed has 300 x 300mm, and neatly curtailed off brains to one side in its control box with a mounted filament holder. Also, CR-10 looks slim, has mustard color go-faster stripes, and prints well.
The CR-10 happens to be one of the cheapest around with a retail price of about $400. The only disadvantage is that the producers don’t sell it themselves. This means that you’ll have to find third-party retailers, and each retailer would have their warranty terms and support options. The reason for this is to free the producer from any kind of obligation after CR-10 has been purchased.
One good thing about CR-10 is that you can use 1.75mm filament from any brand. Most users find out that low-cost printers are more expensive to use because of their proprietary-only materials, but CR-10 doesn’t work this way.
The CR-10 fulfills its promises to users: an inexpensive and powerful printer with low maintenance and running costs. Getting extra filament and possibly adhesive sheets for your printing is the only thing you’ll have to pay for.
- Open Source: Due to innovation and progress, the producers (Creality) have made firmware and design plans available to all users for extensive modding and improvements. The Open Source is meant to create a large community of users that would contribute to the project, which will result in a better product for everyone.
- Extra Large: CR-10 3D Printer happens to be one of the largest build spaces available. A user can print models that 90% of other printers cannot print. It comes with a unique Bowden extruder design that helps in reducing the weight on the X-axis, and this delivers better performance even on very high prints.
- High Quality: CR-10 3D Printer is covered with an aluminum frame which provides a sturdy base that is meant to last for years. It has POM engineering thermo-plastic V-Slot wheels that will provide excellent dimensional stability while in extended use. Due to the removal of metal-on-metal steel rods, CR-10 noise is cut down dramatically.
- Glass Bed: Creality CR-10 3D Printer comes with a flat and reliable glass bed. You can leave other printers that come with uneven 3D printing surfaces and warped beds. This CR-10 3D Printer glass bed ensures a 100% usability and flat surface for any of your printing from the smallest test file to the largest model.
- Safety and Reliable: CR-10 3D Printer happens to come with an industrial-grade circuit board. Not only that, all their 3d firmware has been updated with thermal runaway protection that minimizes security risks and provides users with a safe 3d printing environment.
CR-10 Technical Specifications
- CR-10 FDM 3D Printer Properties
- CR-10 Printing size: 300*300*400mm
- CR-10 Printing speed: Max traveling speed 100mm/s
- CR-10 Filament diameter: 1.75mm
- CR-10 Offline printing: Online or SD offline
- CR-10 File format: STL. OBJ. G-Code
CR-10 FDM 3D Printer Hardware
- CR-10 Equipment size: 600*590*610mm
- CR-10 Package size: 635*525*270mm
- CR-10 Rated power: 270W
- CR-10 Rated voltage: 110V/220V output 12V
- CR-10 Machine weight: CR-10(300) 8.7KG
- CR-10 Packages weight: CR-10(300) 13.5KG
CR-10 FDM 3D Printer Extruder Hardware
- CR-10 Nozzle temperature: ≤250 degrees
- CR-10 Hotbed temperature: Normal ≤75℃
If you’ve been looking for how to calibrate your CR-10, it’s your lucky day. Today you’ll some practical tips on how to calibrate your CR-10 before you launch. However, you need to use several basic tools to carry out this guide such as Allen keys, calipers, spanners, and angle rulers.
- The first thing to do is to pay attention to all existing frame bolts. Note that the screws that fasten all the frame components are not tight enough. You need to carefully tighten the hexagon socket head cap screws, make sure to be careful not to break the threads in the aluminum profiles.
- It’s vital to correctly adjust the X, Y, and Z-axis rollers which can be found on both sides. The CR-10s printer slack system was solved with non-concentric nuts on which rollers are mounted. Note that all rollers with the cart must be able to rotate using finders and slight resistance. But if the rollers rotate without having any issues or need more turning, then the slack adjustment must be adjusted.
- Now adjust the X-axis trolley slack:
You can use the double wrench supplied (8-10mm) to adjust it. The adjustment center nut can be found on the side of the work table. You must place the profile with the X-axis carriage which is around 200mm above the work table and take off the tin headcover. Once you do this, it will facilitate the manipulation of all the tools during adjustment.
Just slightly loose (1/8 turn) the self-locking nut which you will see tightens the roller axle to the sheet metal trolley (8mm wrench). After that, make use of a 10mm wrench to turn the non-centered nut clockwise (by deleting the slack between the roller and guide) or counterclockwise (by increasing the slack between the roller and guide).
Now correctly delete the slack between the rollers and the guide, this will allow you to rotate each roller in the finders with slight resistance. Once you have finished adjusting, remember to tighten back the self-locking nut of the roller axle.
PLEASE NOTE! When you slack it too much, it can cause the rollers to deform which might result in their damage. Also, excessive slack will affect printing quality.
- Try to adjust the Y-axis trolley slack:
Make sure you turn the printer base to 180 degrees, and when done, it will facilitate access to the guide rollers of the table’s base. Note that the factory comes with 6 guide rollers, and the middle row should be removed with caution. The four extreme rollers ensure optimal table stability, with an easy clearance to be adjusted which will help in the reduction of the weight of the entire table.
- Try to adjust the Z-axis trolley slack:
Before you do any adjustment, ensure you remove both trapezoidal screws and then unscrew and take off the top profile completely to fasten the two vertical printer guides. You will notice that both carriages have 3 rollers, but only one (right) has a slack adjustment with a non-concentric nut.
But before adjusting the slack in the right trolley, try to loosen the screws that guide the X-axis guide to the left and right trolley. Any adjustment of slack can be carried out in the same way you did with the previous points.
PLEASE NOTE! Before you tighten the X-axis carriage guide, ensure you pay attention to its perpendicular position via the printer base. For this to be done, use the caliper in measuring the distance between the upper surface of the base profile, and the lower edge of the X-axis profile, and then set the X guide on the right by keeping the measured distance you previously did.
Also note that the final achievement of the parallelism of the X guide can be a complicated process because it is impossible to have access to the screw heads after you must have installed the left trolley.
- You can begin the process of re-inserting the Z-axis trapezoidal screws after adjusting the play of the rollers. One common process to use is to couple the stepper motor axis using a propeller by inserting a ball bearing (ø6-7mm) into a flexible aluminum coupling. This can be found between the motor shaft and the trapezoidal screw. When you do this, it will allow for a precise screw mounting directly on the motor shaft face as you maintain the flexibility of the connection.
- The next thing to do is to position the brass bushes of the trapezoidal screws very well. For this to be done, loosen the screws that secure the brass nuts to the Z-axis bogies. You can set the head in the lower position (about Z = 0mm) after it is done. After that, tighten the trapezoidal nut by fixing the screws you previously loose.
When you do this, it will allow for the optimal alignment of the nut axis which is related to the axis of the Z-axis motors.
When you look at the CR-10 calibration process, it may seem too complicated. But when you read through the individual points above, it will allow for a better understanding of how to calibrate your CR-10 operation which should minimize the factors that negatively affect the quality of your printing.